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Zack's Rainbow Raglan

finished chest size: 30"
armhole depth: 7"
fits my 4 year old Debbie Bliss style (*very* oversized)
gauge: 4st/in
handspun wool measured approx. 8 - 10 wpi
I used gray (approx. 250 yards)
Red (17 Yds)
Orange (20 yd)
Green (20 yd)
Light blue (15 yd)
Bright blue (25 yd)

need:

make 1: I suggest the backward loop make 1.

Cast on 36 stitches. Purl 1, place a marker in the next stitch and purl it, purl 6, place marker into next stitch and purl it, purl 18, place marker in next stitch and purl it, purl 6, place marker in next stitch and purl it, purl 1.

Next row (right side): Knit in the front and back of the first stitch, *knit to marked stitch, make 1, knit the marked stitch, make 1, * repeat * to *, knit to end of row, knit in front and back of last stitch.
Row 2 (wrong side): Purl back.

Continue these two rows until back of neck measures about 1.5" from start of work. Count the front stitches (before the first and after the last marker), and then count the back stitches (between the second and third markers). At the end of the next right side row, cast on the difference (for me it was 8 stitches) all at once. These will be your center front stitches. Place a marker for the beginning of the row, and join the work into a circle. Then
Row 1: knit
Row 2: *knit to marked stitch, make 1, knit marked stitch, make 1* around

Repeat these two rows until armhole is 7" deep. Place stripes as you like -- I started the red one 2" below the front center stitches, and kept going till I'd used up all my colors. Front and back sections will each have 60 st between markers, sleeves each have 48. Total stitch count = 220
Dividing round:
Knit to first marked stitch (beginning of left sleeve), then use the 16" circular needle and knit across the marked stitch, sleeve stitches and next marked stitch. Slip next 60 stitches (back) onto a length of yarn, slip next 50 sleeve stitches onto a separate piece of yarn, and slip remaining 60 (front) stitches onto a third length of yarn.

Left sleeve: Cast on two stitches, knit across 50 st on needle, join work. Knit around until sleeve is 2" short of desired length. *Knit 2, knit 2 together* around: 38 stitches remain. For snug cuffs, switch to size 7 double pointed needles and k1, p1 rib for 2". Bind off loosely.

Right sleeve: Repeat instructions for left sleeve on the opposite set of 50 stitches.

Neckband: This can be done anytime after the center front stitches are cast on -- I usually do it right before or after the sleeves, because then it really looks like a sweater.

Using size 7 needle, knit up 52 stitches around neck -- one for each stitch cast on and added at the front edge. For a ribbed neck, k1,p1 for as long as you like. For a rolled neck, simply knit around for 2".

Body: Slip front and back body stitches back onto the large circular needle. Starting under a sleeve, knit up two stitches from the cast on sleeve stitches, twist the strand at the corner where the sleeve meets the body and knit it up, knit across 60 body stitches, then twist a strand at the corner and knit it up, knit up two cast on sleeve stitches, twist and knit a corner stitch, knit across 60 body stitches, and twist and knit the remaining corner stitch. Knit 1, place marker for beginning of round. You should have 128 stitches.

To tidy up the corners, *knit 2 tog, k60, ssk,* repeat * to * to beginning of round: 124 stitches.

Keep knitting until it's long enough. For a ribbed bottom, stop 2" shy of desired length. Knit 8, k2tog around, then switch to smaller needles and rib 2". For a rolled bottom, switch to smaller size needles and plain knit till you're done. Cast off and enjoy!

THE NO-PURL, FRONT/BACK REVERSIBLE VERSION

Cast on 52 stitches. Join and knit a round, placing markers in the 2nd, 9th, 28th, and 35th stitches. Place a marker at the beginning of the round, and alternate plain knit rounds with increase rounds. When armhole is deep enough, divide as for regular sweater.

At cuffs, bottom of sweater, and neck, use smaller needles and do a rolled edge instead of ribbing.

Copyright 2000 Deborah Bodmer (dbodmer@rmi.net). Reproduce at will for personal use.

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