OK...we have the materials ready, we have measured our feet, we have the
pattern in hand, and so off we go.
Before I start, I will warn all of you...I am not responsible for any
Spinners Online Compulsively Knitting Socks that arise from
these lessons. If you get like me.....halfway through one sock you are
planning for the next pair. There is nothing.....may I
shout....NOTHING .....that feels as good on your feet as handspun
handknit socks. I am a Pisces, and we are very aware of
our feet, so its not all my fault.
Socks are the perfect use for 4 oz of fiber spun firmly into a 2 (or
more) ply yarn. Who among us will confess to having bits of
this and that in our fiber stash? 3 oz of a nice wool and 1 ounce of
something else combine nicely for socks. Knit the
socks..experiment with the gauge and if they come out a tad big....run
them once through your washing machine and VOILA
The Cast On:
It is most important to cast on loosely to get the socks to stretch over
your ankles as you put them on. If you have been used to
using a cable cast on, or a loop cast on, bite the bullet and learn LONG
TAIL cast on. The web page mentioned in the
MATERIALS post will help you out there.
For those of you who simply KNOW you cast on tightly, cast on over TWO
needles..this will force your loops to relax to a
These socks are not fussy in fit or in needle sizes necessary....one
size is used throughout. Most sock patterns will call for a
smaller sized needle to work the ribbing and if you are so inclined and
have the materials available, do so.
OK...get your circular needle and park yourself for a while. Here we go.
I hope that by now you have printed out the pattern and have a hard copy
to work with and mark up. Keep a pencil nearby
when you knit, and add notes to yourself on the pattern. You will be
surprised how helpful these can be later on. Circle the
SIZE and STITCH NUMBER you will be following. (Make sure you have put
down somewhere the LENGTH of the sock
LEG you want (to the floor), and the LENGTH of the FOOT, and, of course,
the actual circumference of your foot.)
I will reprint parts of the pattern here and go through it
all......anything in quotes"" "" is from the pattern.
With the circular needle, cast on 32 (36, 40, 44, 50, 54) sts. Join.
Use a marker to mark the beginning of the round and work
- OPTION 1: *k1, p1* repeating around for 8 inches.
- OPTION 2: *k1, p1* repeating around for 2 inches. Work around in k only.
(Great place to insert a pattern of your choice for the
next 6 inches.)"
To measure your yarn for cast on..here's a tip that works quite well for
95% of the knitters I teach. If you end up being in the
minority, please don't whine. ...holding the end of the yarn in your
hand, wrap it around the needle LOOSELY 10x. That
will measure off the amount you will need for 10 sts. Measure off by
eye....more yarn in that length for every set of 10 sts you
need to cast on..and then add about 4". Make your slip knot there and
proceed with long tail cast on until you have the stitch
number you need.
Now, here's where the pattern says "Join." With circular knitting, it is
vital that you NOT twist your cast on edge when you join
your stitches together to knit in the round. Here's a tip......once all
your cast on stitches are on.....lay your needle down on a flat
surface with the 2 points at the top of it. Have the yarn that comes
from the ball of yarn on the RIGHT and the last cast on
stitch on the TOP RIGHT point of your needle. Look at your cast on
stitches and turn the edge that has some bulk to it to the
INSIDE of the circle. KEEP IT THERE. Make sure there are no wrap-around
twists along the needle cable...if there are, turn
all the stitches around the cable and even out the rest of them that
follow (like ducks in a row). OK. Knit the first stitch of the
TOP LEFT point of the needle with the yarn coming from the
right...knitting that stitch on to the TOP RIGHT point. You are
joined. Put a marker in the place back before you knit that first
OK...what sort of ribbing do you fancy for your sock? The more socks I
make, the less ribbing I use..I HATE to purl. I am
reduced to 1" of ribbing these days. You, on the other hand, may want
these socks to stand up by themselves in a downpour,
and want them to be ALL ribbing. GO FOR IT! You will find that the first
few rounds of knitting on these needles is tight and
difficult. That is, unfortunately, part of their charm. You will either
put up with it or hate it. Some folks are know to start sock
cuffs on double pointed needles and work the first few rounds that way,
and then knit the sock onto the circular needle once
some natural stretch is built into the stitches with the knitting.
You have to create the height of the LEG minus 1.5 - 2". Those of you
working from the kits I sent...realize that you have
enough yarn to make the socks 6" before the heel (if you are knitting to
the gauge in the pattern), so either find oddments in
your stash and plan on using them for STRIPES in the sock, or the TOES,
or BOTH. This design "feature" actually helps in the
creativity department, so be creative if you need to be.
If anyone decides to put in a color pattern or a compressing cable
stitch pattern, do holler and say so...I have tidbits to share
on those ideas.
OK... so knit your sock to your desired length and we'll get started
on the heel next.
This material ©2000 Claudia Krisniski
Back to the sock lessons